Gulamhusen Umar Khatri | Qasbi

Reviving the Ancient Craft of Bandhani from Kutch

Gulamhusen Umar Khatri is a Bandhani artisan from Bhuj, Kutch, in Gujarat, India, with over 31 years of experience perfecting the art of hand-tying and resist-dyeing. Born into a Khatri family, Gulamhusen’s journey into Bandhani began early, with him learning the craft from his parents. His mother taught him the delicate art of Bandhej (hand-tying), while his father focused on dyeing the tied fabric. Initially balancing tailoring work with his family’s Bandhani practice, Gulamhusen eventually transitioned to full-time Bandhani and, alongside his sons, turned their craft into a thriving business. 

Bandhani is an ancient resist-dyeing technique that has been a part of Gulamhusen’s family for generations. The process begins with designing intricate patterns on perforated paper stencils, which are then transferred onto fabric using ink. Next, skilled women artisans from surrounding villages hand-tie the fabric, creating knots that resist the dye, leaving behind beautiful and complex patterns. The fabric is dyed using a mix of natural and chemical dyes, and after the knots are unbound, the final design is revealed. The designs range from traditional motifs inspired by nature and geometry to modern interpretations influenced by Ottoman and Islamic architectural patterns.

This meticulous process, from tying the knots to dyeing and untying the fabric, produces textiles that are both timeless and contemporary, blending cultural heritage with creative innovation. Gulamhusen’s work includes a variety of textiles, from traditional gharcholas (bridal shawls) to modern garments, each reflecting the deep cultural significance of Bandhani and its impact on the Kutch region.

With a deep commitment to preserving this heritage, Gulamhusen has trained over 50 young artisans and employs more than 380 people, including 300 women artisans. His vision includes creating a school for Bandhani artisans of all ages to learn the craft and ensure its future. Through these efforts, he is empowering his community, preserving the tradition, and providing sustainable livelihoods for artisans.