A Circular Economy Thrives in Thimphu

Karma Choden, Karma Yangchen, and Wangchuk Lhamo are second and third-generation weavers and exemplars of upholding an ancestral tradition while focusing on sustainable production. Nestled in the valley of Thimphu, Bhutan, the women begin by dyeing their yarn with pure homegrown natural dyes, madder is foraged from the community forest area and creeper is collected with care to ensure it will continue to produce next season. The yarns are dyed using a traditional fermentation process called bangtshoe, then the yarn is handspun by a select group of skilled artisans and woven on a pangtha loom. The pangtha is one of the oldest looms used in Bhutan, often made of bamboo, it is portable and requires less room. Other looms used in Bhutan include the thritha and soghu thagshing. The earliest known textiles from this area were made from zocha or nettle grass, the family continues to work with handspun nettle, as well as locally grown cotton, mulberry silk, and eri silk.

Bhutanese textiles are known for their vibrant colors, often drawing inspiration from Himalayan Buddhist art. Choden, Yangchen, and Lhamo emphasize that their motives and motifs derive from the nature that surrounds them. In their studio, they have implemented a zero-waste weaving policy. Through proper measurements and strict quality control, there is no yarn wastage during the entire weaving process. The waste from the dye is made into organic fertilizer and used in their kitchen garden. The women share, "Internationally there is a trend towards natural fibers and dyes, as people are concerned about climate change. Through our practice of sustainable management, we want people to understand the importance of working in line with and co-existing with nature.”

Karma Yangchen is considered one of the few veteran handwoven textile producers. Her fascination with weaving began at age 16 and by 20 she was running her own textile business. Karma Choden left a career working with government agencies, the United Nations, and NGOs to pursue her passion in textiles full-time. She learned to weave at the age of 14 to pay for her school expenses. Both Yangchen and Choden have decades of experience with natural dyeing and are responsible for training over 2000 artists in Bhutan. Wangchuk Lhamo grew up winding yarn into balls and collecting madder, she is now a recognized weaver and natural dye artist in her own right, learning from her aunt Karma Yangchen.