Weaving Dayak Desa Traditions and Lore

NTFP EP Indonesia brings incredible ikat and doyo textiles and anjat baskets from the Dayak Desa culture of Indonesia. A prolific weaver, Abadi was born and raised in Tanjung Isuy, East Kalimantan and is from the Benuaq tribe of the Dayak. Traditional weavers are harder to find in Tanjung Isuy as many have opted to work in the rubber and palm oil plantations, but for Abadi, who learned to weave as a child, she remains committed to uplifting weaving as a vital practice of the Deyak Desa culture.

Doyo textiles include the ulap doyo, which is a woven cloth used for ceremonial and decorative purposes made by Benuaq women. It is typically adorned with traditional motifs ranging from tigers to fish. Dayak ikat can be distinguished by similar motifs, as well as the tassel endings on both sides of the weaving. The Dayak Desa did not have a written language, therefore much of what we know about their culture comes exclusively from oral culture, as well as studying their drawings and woven motifs. Noni, indigo, lengkar, turmeric, emarek, engkerabang, and jerenang rattan are all used to naturally dye the yarn for both doyo and ikat textiles. 

Anjat baskets are tightly woven from rattan. The rattan is harvested, cleaned, dried, and then split into incredibly thin strips called rawai. Once enough rawai has been prepared, the weaving can begin. One of the most common motifs found in anjat baskets is called “pakis jangan buer” or “jangan buer fern.” This motif tells the story of a Dayak woman weaving a mat with a motif inspired by a fern, as she was weaving she would look outside her window to glance upon the ferns outside. Her jealous husband caught her glances and assumed she was flirting with other men. In a fit of rage he took her life, but when he stepped outside and only found ferns crawling at his feet, he recognized his grave mistake. This motif is typically only found on baskets, like anjats, and is only woven by widowers as a lesson of the importance of trust and communication.